TUKI: 15-Heated Chamber Preparations.


I like to print with ABS because of the durability and the ability to manipulate the material chemically (acetone).

  • I decided to add a ~150W heater to the printer. For me to do this I decided to find a small ceramic heater that operates at ~12v. I had a bunch of surprising options but in the end I decided to get an axillary automotive heater for the task. The reason is that it cost less to buy a 150w auxiliary automotive heater than to buy the heater and fan separately.

  • The heater was going to be controlled in a smart way. I simply do not want to turn it on and walk away, a thermostat of some sort was in order. I initially wanted the ramps board to control this but it was too much of a hassle when a 13 dollar thermostat was going to do the job just fine. Here is the heater in its Chinese glory followed by the wiring diagram. No its not polarity sensitive, but the heater itself due to fan is.

  • The heater has been modified to use TX60 connector instead of the automotive plug. I soldered and used heat shrink to close the wires.

  • The part I always forget to show because its difficult to photograph is the terminal block I custom built for this printer using this printer. I had a bunch of loose terminals from scavenging in the past, so I measured and built an ABS holder for said terminals to snap into and give me a custom terminal block.

  • The only thing left on the electrical side of things is to add a 30amp automotive fuse in line with the splitter block. Although not strictly necessary as the switching PSU will shut down in case of a short.

Evacuating fumes.

I decided to have a way to evacuate the fumes out of my printer once the print is done. This involved me drilling a rather large hole in the top of the printer as well as mounting a blower fan. This is the result.

  • The fan as of now is not connected. It is a 24v .4amp fan that runs just fine at 12v. It will simply connect to a switch on the front panel and blow the fumes out when called upon. This was salvaged from an ancient server and is designed to stand up to high temperatures. I am sure I will be 3d printing some form of a duct for this so I can connect a tube that blows the fumes and heat outside.

Final thoughts.

  • Why did I go with a 12v heater some of you may ask? It’s not exactly efficient to add a 12v heater when a mains heater will do the job. The reason is simply that I do not want mains lines running anywhere near the printer. All the mains are isolated to the beefy power supply.
  • There remains allot more work to do before this chamber becomes a reality. I need to construct walls for this printer and thermally insulate them so the heater does not run for hours and hours.
  • Worry about plastic parts. As of now the end effector is printed with ABS and is running aluminum plate to keep it from degrading too much. This has worked with pla as well. However the carriages are still printed in PLA, and I have a fear of warping. I will be redesigning the carriages from scratch to get rid of the zip ties holding the linear bearings as well as relocate the end stop triggers as well as add some much needed adjustment screws.

Stuck between a rock and a hard place.

I managed to destroy my j-head by accidentally boring the tip to 1.6mm. This did not make me happy. However I did try to print with it. It did not work well. However I am sure with some tweaking I could make it work.

  • Here is a video result.

Bruno M.

Engineer, Tinkerer, Technologist, Maker.

New York

Subscribe to engineerd3d

Get the latest posts delivered right to your inbox.

or subscribe via RSS with Feedly!