TUKI Build Part 10: It's getting hot in here...

Mirror mirror on the...

I ordered a mirror with a beveled edge. I did not like the beveled edge however it was reasonably priced, the price was around 16bux shipped. I used a mirror as the glass on a mirror has to be fairly straight for it to function properly. 14' Round Mirror

Mounting & Fastening.

From the previous entry in the blog. This is what I want to achieve.

I have to say, I installed the glass. Pictures coming shortly. However I do notice that the glass is definitely not heating up evenly.

As suggested in some forums I will be replacing the MOSFET on the ramps as well as those annoying little fuses. I am planning on using automotive style fuses on the printer. As well as replacing the mosfets with TO-220 IRLB8743PBF They cost me about 5bux shipped. The automotive fuses on the other hand I have not yet purchased. The middle of the glass is up to temp in roughly 5 minutes (60c) is as high as I dare go, the glass wont hold much more than that I suspect. I will be testing out the limits once I start printing. The bed consumes ~90W. I doubled the wires to the bed as well to give me current carrying capability. The PSU holds a rock stable 12.3V loaded or unloaded. I am very impressed, it also does not heat up much.

TRAXXAS 5347

I have to say I am very impressed with these units. The only short coming was that they do have a very slight slop, which is remedied by springs on the arms. I used 1/4inch solid aluminum rod that I drilled/tapped to 8/32 as I also tapped the rods for that as well. I could not wait for my 1m CF rods, so I used heavier than desired aluminum. However after bonding the rods and alu with JB-Weld and doing an alignment, they exactly match each other. No slop due to the springs as well. All it took was 3 springs in the middle of the rods zip tied on. It looks good as well.

This picture I like,

The Rods and the aluminum ring spacer I used. The spacer came from an old HDD and was perfect for the job.

Hot end

Well I adapted my hot end. The pla is already warping, it only hit 230c twice and not for more than 5 minutes. Looks like I will be spending some quality time with the drill press and some aluminum. This is causing some real issues as the build height keeps changing due to it being pla.

The middle of the head where the fittings screws in is warping due to heat.

I made the head modular with an old fan header and TX-60 Connector.

Extruder

Well it is mounted, it has no problem pushing the ABS through the tube and through the hot end, it wont extrude much under 210c but that is expected for ABS.

The spool mount is a simple ABS pipe, some HDD bearings and a 8/32 threaded rod. I used an old O-ring to ensure the spool does not slide out.

Finished printer.

With projects like this its never really done, as I want to add so much more in the coming months. I want a heated build chamber added with a proper PID controller built around this thing.

Next up? Rebuild the head holder with aluminum and try to print again. So far I’m not disappointed in this printer at all. This move forward has been the result of thrashing through the work and working myself until I felt numb. The amount of work is staggering as this is a fairly complex machine. Any variation has to be though out and implemented properly. I also need to regrease the rods as I have managed to wipe them dry due to me touching them.

Next update. Hopefully it prints.

Bruno M.

Engineer, Tinkerer, Technologist, Maker.

New York

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